8424 180th St. SE
Snohomish, WA 98296
Here are some common questions and answers we have fielded over the years. We welcome any additional questions you may have--just call us during regular business hours. We can give you prices on spays, neuters, and vaccines; any other quotes have to be made by the doctor after an exam of your pet.
Average age is 5 to 6 months. Pets can sexually mature slightly earlier or later (just like people).
Generallly 6 to 8 weeks. We give boosters every 3 to 4 weeks until they are 16 weeks old. Rabies is added when the pet reaches at least 12 weeks. The state of Washington requires rabies vaccines by the time a puppy or kitten is 16 weeks old.
The first Rabies given lasts one year. After that, rabies vaccines are good for 3 years in Washington. (It varies by state.) A Core vaccine (DHPP-Cvk, FVRCP-C, Felv) is good for one year after the FINAL puppy or kitten booster. Our policy is then to go to 3-year "Core" vaccines, like rabies.
Yes, we always do an exam with core vaccines. Exceptions are Bordatella (kennel cough) which can be given by a technician if the dog is in good health and has been seen by the doctor within the last year, and the second feline leukemia booster, if a doctor allows.
No, we don't have "Packages". Vaccine protocols can change with the age and the health of the pet. The doctor determines how many boosters your pet will need. Our policy is to expect payment at the time of service. Kitten and puppy vaccine prices include the exam, which is slightly discounted, presuming the pet is continuing to grow in good health.
We genearlly recommend one of the "name-brand" companies, who also do all the pet food research. Hill's, Purina (ProPlan and O.N.E), Eukanuba, Royal Canin and Iams are all companies which have good food and consistency in formulation. In general, buy the best food you can afford. Stay away from generics or pet store brands because they have less nutrition and more fillers. If you are changing foods, do it gradually, mixing the old with the new over several days.
Number one, it prevents unexpected or unwanted pregnancy, in your or someone else;s animal. Pregnancy and birth both carry health risks to your pet. There are also sexually transmitted diseases that can be passed during mating. Spaying and neutering also prevent later health problems, such as mammary and uterine cancers, prostate cancer, uterine infections, and testicular tumors. It also prevents the side-effects of hormonal fluctuations--escaping from yards (and getting hit by cars), fighting, and some dominance problems. It also costs much less and is a less risky surgery when done at the younger age.
No, our policy is to expect payment at the time of service. We accept all major credit cards, debit cards, checks, and cash.
We recommend Advantage or Frontline for an active flea problem. They are safe for the pet, and they kill adult biting fleas before they can lay ore eggs. We carry Advantage, but will only dispense it to pets we have seen. You can now get both products "over the counter" at pet stores and other retail outlets. Some people like Program to prevent a flea problem--it is an oral medication that acts as a "flea birth control" so they cannot lay eggs. It does not get rid of the biting adults. These products cannot "cure" a bad flea infestation--you may have to treat the environment with area treatment sprays, or call in professionals.
Spraying can have a medical or behavioral cause. We recommend an exam and a urinalysis to rule out the medical causes before talking about behavioral causes.
There are several potential reasons. Are you feeding them milk? (Don't.) Has there been an abrupt food change? Did they eat something they shouldn't have (like a plant or people food or bird poop or compost)? They may have parasites, or they may have a virus. If there has been a recent food change, and the pet is acting normal otherwise, this is probably the culprit, and a bland diet for several days should help. Any other reason probably has to be assessed by the doctor, and bringing in a fecal sample is always a good idea. If the puppy or kitten is lethargic or not eating, we should see it right away.
Yes. Vomiting associated with decreased appetite, weight loss, or lethargy (acting tired) should always lead to an exam. Puppies who vomit after eating should be examined in case of a foreign body obstruction (such as a chew toy, rock, pieces of clothing). Puppies can also vomit due to parasites, so you should bring in a stool sample to the exam. Some adult cats can vomit from time to time because of hairballs. You don't always see hair in the vomit. A lot of times cats with hairballs will vomit shortly after eating, and bring up undigested food. If it is acting normally otherwise, we would recommend a laxative (hairball remedy) available from us or pet stores.
Our policy is not to euthanize an animal we have never seen before. Please come in for an appointment with us before you get to this difficult decision! If your pet is one of our patients, you need to decide if you want to be with him/her, and what you want to do with him afterwards. Please call us to talk to one of the staff.
We do not see birds. We recommend Dr. Darrell Kraft, who is a board-certified avian specialist, and who has a mobile vet service. There is also a new day practice and 24 hour emergency service for birds and other exotics near North Creek in Bothell, The Center for Bird & Exotic Animal Medicine.
8424 180th St. SE
Snohomish, WA 98296